I marked the spline on the slack adjuster, and removed the snap ring,
and disconnected the DD3 rod to the adjuster. The slack adjuster and washer
came off the back, and the S cam slide out the front. I slide the
S cam back in at a tilt to come in contact with the back bushing, and tapped
it with a hammer, easily removing the back bushing and seal. I then inserted
the S cam in the back and forced the front seal and bearing out too. The
bushings did not look as bad as I had thought. They are Very thick bushings,
probably a ¼” thick new. The S Cam seal I had bought was not
the right one for the main axle. I have listed the correct number with
the parts list. I also noticed the remote grease hose to the bushing was
torn into. I washed the parts up and went into my local Auto part to try
to get the seal and the hose. Napa didn’t have the seal but could order
for next day. I have learned to ask the price, and I am glad I did. The
seal was $4.68, and I would need two. I am not cheap, but I decide I could
make the old seal work well enough. The Bus Guy had told me
he usually is able to reuse them, and they are not of great importance.
Of course I could not get a hose with a twist fitting on one end, so I
chose a brake line, and a fitting to convert one end to a pipe thread.
I shaped the Brake line with a tubing bender. I think it will actually
work better that the flexible hose.
The outside S cam bushing was easy to get in, but the back was a little
harder. With a piece of all thread, and a washer of the right size
I got it in place. After the Bushing is in, there is a recess for
the grease seal. The S cam felt good and snug now. The bus Guy had told
me the S cam might have some wear on it, and if much should be built up
or replaced. He said new it was about $100. The cam did have some wear,
but very slight. I decided to turn it 180Deg. to give it a new surface
on the torque point. Now to make the seals work. I cleaned the old seal
out and was able to put an O ring in the center. Instead of putting
the seal in the recess with the bushing, I slide the front seal all
the way down on the Cam and then put the Scam back into place
for the final installation. With a couple of taps of the hammer on the
end of the S can, the seal went into place. I carefully fitted the back
seal on, and slide it to start point, and with a small hammer taped it
into place also. The shim washers were slide on and then the slack adjuster.
A snap ring holds it in place.
With the new bearing oiled and new seal in place, I slide the wheel
on with the pallet jack. I tightened the nut with a large pair of channel
lock pliers, and a bar for torque, while turning the wheel. The book
says to tighten to bind, and back off 1/8 turn. It does take some pressure
to seat the seal. After replacing the axle, I removed the plug on
the end of the axle, and filled the hub with 140 gear grease. I also
toped off the rear end with the same 140. I started the bus to get
air pressure, released the parking brake and adjusted the slack adjuster.
After a 100 mile run, there is no sign of leak.
Mallie Lennon / Eufaula, OK
MC-8