mc-8 roof raise, 10/15/01 The rear cap has been my main challenge for the last week or so, when I could work on it. The mc-8 rear cap is made in two pieces, upper and lower. The lower has the look of a window frame, unlike the mc-9. I was convinced I could re configure it to look like the new caps from R&M. After all there are those that build them from scratch, why could I not redesign?


A picture is worth at least a thousand words, and I have pictures,, in the camera. I will try to explain, and you can tell me, after you see the pictures, is I did a good explaining.



Here are the picutres at last.
I had to do a little additional triming once it was in place
All in all it fit good

I slide the upper portion back about 10 inches, and clapped in into place on the upper rails, with a bolt in the old rivet holes. I took two angles, affixed them to the two rear, center supports and made them stick straight out the back, about 10 inches above the blower area. I took the old, mc8 cap, (the one that was under the new 9 cap) and stood it up with the front up, and tucked under the old upper rear cap. It did not fit very well. I took a yellow grease pencil, and marked on the old mc-8 front cap along where the upper cap reached. I took the mc-8, front cap down, and trimmed it about 2 inches beyond the mark, and returned it to the nose up positioned under the old upper, rear cap. This time I was able to get it to match much closer. I shimmed the bottom that is resting on the two angles, to get a better fit. I place 4 of 5 screws threw the old rivet hole to hold them together. As the screws went in, the two pieces begin to blend. With the bottom adjusted to be inline with the lower portion of the bus, I could see how much forward tilt there was on the cap. It was too straight up and down. I took the old upper cap loose, and slide it two inches forward, and re clapped it. The angle was just right. I then cut a fiberglass strip the width of the space below the cap, and the rail where the rear cap attaches. I used the inside portion of fiberglass that formed the inside of the bus front for material. I also cut a splice piece for the back side. I attached the lower piece in the center with temporary screws, and trimmed and fitted to make the bend around the sides with the back up piece, screwing the two pieces together with sheet rock screws.


This is the first trial fit after triming.
Note the blocks holding the cap in place at the bottom


I pulled everything off, and sanded the matching surfaces thoroughly with my 4 inch grinder, on both sides. I then re assembled it. Once it was fitted, I went along the top line installing screws, and the bottom splice, pulling it as close together as possible. I made a measuring container out of a pop can to measure the resin. About 5 ounces. I bought some aluminum cake pans, square, 3 for a dollar, and some throw away paint brushes. I cut strips of fiberglass cloth 1 and 1/2 inches wide, to cover the outside joints. I mixed, and laid the outside, adjusting the hardener until it hardened, without heating.


On the left, after first coat of resin with everythng in place.
On right insde after it is glued together.


The cloth was a weave, easier for me to work than the mat. I just worked a couple of pieces per batch of resin, smoothing out all the air spots. The small strip would fit between the screw lines at the bottom, and missed the screw line on top. I took several batches, and filled the inside lip at the top on the inside. The next day, I was able to pull all the screws, and ground all rough spots down with the 4 inch grinder . I increased the width of the fibber glass to four inches, and repeat the process. The next day, I pulled the inside back up piece inside at bottom, ground smooth, and applied a 4 inch layer of fiberglass mat. After hardening, I increased the strip width to 6 inches, covering the old river hole on the inside. It looks pretty good, but where to make it meet the side metal, behind or in front of the radiator fill, or in the middle? Last side window post on each side became my target, I took a piece or cardboard, and cut out a pattern to fit the space. There would be a little tail in front of the radiator air intakes, and just over the outside of the other portion of the cap. (My Mc-8 had a 9 type window put in it, so the lower window rail is several inches lower that the mc-8) I used the lower portion of the old cap to cut these from. I ground and the out side for the splice tapering it to a sharp edge, and the inside for resin. They fit beautifully. I clapped the from edge to the post. I mixed a batch of resin, spread the rear apart, painted both surfaces, and screwed the two together, quickly. After it hardened, I put a layer of resin and fiberglass cloth on the outside, and the inside. Still got some to do to finish, but it is going to work, and IMHO,, look good. Did this mostly around my other work, and it seemed pretty slow.

 If money had not been a factor, I would most certainly have bought new caps, but the two would have cost $1500 delivered. There will be quita bit of work to do them this way, but in the end I think it will be as good, and look as good as new caps.
My bus progress page starts Here
Mallie Lennon/Eufaula, OK 918-452-3630
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Rev Oct.27, 2001