n my mc-8 roof raise, 8/28/01
Have the windows out, stripped and both caps off.
Had trouble finding 1 3/4 Sq tubing, but finally located it today at Service Steel, Muskogee, 75 cent per foot. Have cut enough uprights to frame the new windows, and extensions, to extend the post I will cut. I have cut 8 pieces of 2 x 2 x 3/16 angle, 2 foot long to clamp in pairs around 4 of the post as I cut them in the middle. These will be secured by muffler clamps. The cuts post should separate, and slide between the angles maintaining alignment as I raise each corner, 2 inches at a time, with a port a power.

You can see how I used the angles. These pictures are when I first installed them, and was cutting the other post. I added another clamp to the top and bottom, that would hold the cut while I repositioned the jack.

I have one area of rust that I will have to replace around the escape hatch. It would probably be easier to fix before the raise. The curved tubing on the bottom of the rear cap, on each end, is going to have to be replaced too.

Also had trouble finding the solid rivets locally. Finally ordered them from a company in Dallas, along with the tool to install them with.

Progress report#2 on my mc-8 roof raise, 8/29/01.

Blocked the bus this morning, and started the raise. There were still a few pieces of trim that had to be removed around the front. Made a guide to cut up rights with.

It allows me to cut precisely square with a portable band saw. Cut 4 tubes in the center of window, about 7 ft in (from roof), and placed the two angles with 4 , 2 1/2 inch muffler clamps around them. (had the box clamps I got from freight salvage) I then continued cutting all the post. Then the rear area, and the front. Portable band saw would reach most areas, but some required the reciprocating saw. Used up several reciprocating blades as they were burned up in binds in cutting the ends. The rear SS posts are hard. All this cutting took longer than I had figured it would.

Set up two port a powers, and two jacks positioned on the end of a 52 inch piece of 4x4 x 1/4 sq tubing. Loosened the muffler clamps and jack 1 inch at a time. Tighten clamps and go to next until I could insert the new window posts. As the tubing neared the top, I loosened the bottom clamps instead, and allowed the gap to remain in the middle of the angles. Finished up last raise at about 5pm. Got home to find my rivets had been delivered, ,,can get the hatch patched now that it is 7 ft up there LOL. Will weld in splices tomorrow with my nephew's new mig welder. Then have to get caught up on some of my money making work. Taking pictures, and will scan, but I do not have a digital camera.

Progress report#3 on my mc-8 roof raise, 8/30/01
Mig is a miller 185 with CO2. Don't like it. Can't see work, stinger too short, going back to my old Miller DC and 3/32 6011 rod. Glad I got to try one before I bought.
Got all the post filled in.

ost welding picture Used an angle clamped to the splice and the two ends. Took 6 clamps to hold it straight. I maintained a specific measurement from bottom rail to top rail. Some splices varied in length slightly, depending on cut straightness etc. With the port a power, I could raise, insert, lower, measure, and redo until it was exact. My full window up rights would, and did hold the space exact except where a previous top shim was off some. Used a full window up right to reconnect the front. As the windows sloop in some at the top, this required some adjustment.
Note: the top is pretty shaky when disconnected from the front and rear. This is where the top gets all it's side strength.
I have some rust around the area where the rear cap attaches at the bottom. The ends are rusted through. I had to remove the fill in plating above the coolant tank. The Piece is only about 15inches long with a radius.

Rear rust pictures

Progress report#4 on my mc-8 roof raise, 10/5/01 I had to remove all the sheet metal covering the top of the blower area. It is installed in pieces, to filling in around the top of radiator tank. There was fiberglass sheet insulation glued to the metal separating the blower area from the inside, and covered with a perforated vinyl sheet like headliner material. Since the top side is going to be foamed, I removed all of this aging material.

New pictures I got all the old rusted metal cut out around the curved portion where the rear cap attaches. Not enough to use for a pattern. I used 1 1/2 x 10ga Sq tubing, and made saw cuts to bend it, then welded the cuts. I welded a piece of 3/4 x 3/4 x 1/8 angle to the inside of the tubing to form the lip. I have replaced all the metal and welded into place. The two rear supports are extended and welded. New metal is primed. I installed the shielding pieces with pop rivets, and polyurethane construction adhesive. It is easy to see how air can bypass the radiator is all seals are not tight. With the rear welded in place, the top is solid as a rock. When you shake it now, the whole bus moves.

here is the rusted radius tubing being replaced.

This is a "real welder" attaching the new tubing .

BTW,, the mig is not that bad for welding the tubing cuts. If you burn a hole, it is a snap to fill. One thing I have learned about the mig,, can't have fans blowing on your work. I replaced all of the upper radiator hoses while it was easy. Top radiator "air evacuation to the expansion tank had replaceable ends. Looks about like a power steering hose.

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Rev Sep.16, 2001